Leaving soon...

We leave England almost one week from today.  Even though I am looking forward to going back home, I am getting sad about leaving.  This year has been an incredible, life-changing experience.  I've loved being in school again, being in England again, traveling, writing and experiencing new things and making new friends.

Speaking of travels, this summer was chock full of them but since we're still recuperating from them (!) and are slow with the uploads, there won't be any pictures for a while.  I do have some on facebook though--for some reason, that's easier to do.  Stay tuned...

Aside from family and friends (and Nigel!), I think I am most looking forward to having my bathroom back, the garbage disposal, HEB, air conditioning and shops that stay open later than 5 p.m.  Russell is already salivating over the prospect of eating Rudy's, watching UT football and laying on a couch that doesn't let his legs hang over the edge.

The things I will miss most about Winchester/England (again, aside from people), are going to class, the cool weather (even when it rains every day for 2 weeks), the proximity of so many historical places, evening walks by the river and chocolate digestive biscuits.

So we are on a farewell tour right now, saying goodbye to all of the places we've come to love, locking the memories away in our hearts forever ;)

Oh, and freaking out over all the things that need to be done in the next week!

Twyford (April) and Our flat

Stephanie: In early April, we took a country walk to Twyford, a small village three miles from Winchester.  The English countryside is so beautiful!  I wish I could take it home with me. Check out the slide show for some pictures.  

It was supposed to be warming up but recently the weather has been a bit gloomy (although that makes it easier for me to stay inside and work).  People think I'm crazy since I actually like and defend the weather here.  For me, it's a refreshing change from the Austin heat.

Here's a bit about our flat:  It's an old church (not sure how old but guessing 1800s) that was converted a few years ago into eleven units.  A few people live here permanently but most rent.

Ours is a one bedroom with a living room, study nook, kitchen and bathroom.

It's very modern and we feel very fortunate to live here.  No complaints except that we do miss not having a garbage disposal (though most people don't seem to have them here anyway) and a yard, especially since grilling season is coming up!  

The location is perfect, especially since we don't have a car.  Downtown is a two minute walk and the university is about a      twelve minute walk.

Barcleona, Spain March 2009

Stephanie: Spain: next stop, Barcelona.  Barcelona is such a cool city.  It has everything: culture, shopping, museums, seaside, history, sports and an olympic stadium.  We took the tourist bus around town to the various sites.  Here are some of the highlights.

Sagrada Familia was first priority.  It is a huge and magnificent church, designed by the visionary architect Antoni Gaudi, who has many other famous buildings around the city.  The church is an on-going, privately funded project and probably won't be finished for another 40 or so years. 

Our guide book recommended we eat at Can Culleretes.  It is the oldest restaurant in Barcelona (est. in 1788!).  We arrived at opening time, 9p.m. and there was a line.  It was worth the wait: great food, great price, lovely decor.

The Barcelona museum had an amazing Roman Villa, very well preserved (seen above).  The Romans were so advanced.  It was so cool to see their central heating system, food storage and washing rooms.  They were more advanced than some modern countries are now.

We visited the Olympic Village which was really cool.  It's situated around some great views of the city.

Check out the slide show for other Barcelona sites: The Cathedral, Aquarium, Barcelona football game, Pier, random Spanish parades (O-lay!)

Valencia March 2009

Stephanie: On our trip to Spain, we went to Valencia first.  The city was having Las Falles, a huge festival where neighborhoods sponsor Falles, papier-mache monuments that they burn on the last night.  It's a week-long celebration, businesses shut down and everyone parties.  It was certainly like nothing we'd experienced before.

We learned early that the Spanish like fire, staying up late and having a good time!

The first night, we tried to look at as many Falles as possible around the city.  There were over 700 in Valencia and the surrounding area.

We tried to sleep in the next morning after a long day of travel and a late night but it wasn't to be as the city's wake-up call consisted of ear-splitting firecrackers going off at 8a.m.  This continued throughout the day and all night.  Children as young as two also lit firecrackers in the street.

The following day, we explored Valencia.  We enjoyed Spanish tapas at a cafe and waded in the Mediterranean.  The weather was cooler than I expected but still very nice.  The Falles started burning around 10p.m.  Each Falles was like its own bonfire and fireworks show.  I was surprised to see so many blazes close to people's flats, cars and historic buildings but there were lots of firemen on hand--they obviously know what they're doing.  We had a great time!

Santos comes to visit, March 2009

Stephanie: Our friend from Texas, Jayson Santos, came to visit in March.  We took him around Winchester, London and Portsmouth before heading to Spain.

London took a few days.  We visited Westminster Abbey, St. Paul's Cathedral, the British museum and the National Gallery.  Check out the slideshows on the side to view the sights.  Russell and Santos went to a Chelsea football game in London.  It was fairly sedate, no soccer hooligans.  Eight minutes after the game ended, they were told to leave immediately because an employee said 'I want to go home.'  Sorry, Santos, no more pictures for you!

In Portsmouth, Russell and Santos visited the Victory ship that Russ and Steph saw in the fall. They noticed a funny sign this time--ha!  Quit your whining!

February 2009

Stephanie: February was a month of lots of working and classes started up again for me.  I am taking modules on Fantasy, Picture books, Publishing and Non-fiction for children this semester. Good stuff.

On Valentine's day, our friends hosted a Murder Mystery dinner.   Lots of fun!  There were eight of us and we had to act and dress as specific characters (I was a mysterious French socialite, Russell was a rough-around-the-edges, opportunistic Aussie).  Then we had to figure how who killed our host.  Turns out it was the Vicar. 

Seems like the 'Vicar' is the new the 'butler'--such a shame.

On February 26, we took a tour of the Abbey House (a former abbey), which is now the official residence of the Winchester mayor (for business purposes only though.  He lives somewhere else).  I have found a new dream career!  His or her main duties include attending official functions (i.e. ones with lots of good food) and acting as host for the city.  How awesome is that?  The mayor is elected from the city council and serves one year.  As Winchester is the ancient capital city, it shares a unique position with London's mayor: when the next coronation happens, they are the only two mayors invited (another reason it is a plush job!).  At the end of the tour, we got to rub elbows and chat with the former mayor and future mayor (the current one was unavailable--probably off at a fancy party :).

Salisbury, February 5, 2009

Stephanie: We were bummed about missing our Prague trip, so to cheer ourselves up we went to Salisbury for a day.  It was still very cold, with snow on the ground, so that made for a most picturesque visit.  First, we visited the Salisbury museum which has a wonderful Stonehenge exhibit (still need to go there) and a large collection of artifacts donated by General Pitt Rivers, the 'father of British archeology.'  Pitt River was born Augustus Henry Lane Fox but changed his name in order to inherit a large fortune from his great uncle--not a bad deal!

Next we visited the famous Salisbury Cathedral (although it wasn't famous enough to have an annoying pop song written about it like Winchester Cathedral, was it?).   A few facts about Salisbury Cathedral: 

it is one of the leading examples of Early English architecture, the main body took 38 years to complete, it has the tallest church spire in the UK at 404 feet, it has the largest cloister and largest cathedral close in Britain, and the world's oldest clock (from AD 1386).  It also has one of the four surviving original copies of the Magna Carta.

We took a tour of the tower where we got to see the ancient wood scaffolding in the interior of the hollow spire.  The views of the city were beautiful.  Russell and I were the only two people on the tour, so it was very personal.  Our guide was great and let us stop for lots of pictures! 

Stephanie on School and Writing

Steph: Since we haven't gone on many trips recently, I thought I would write a little about my school experience.  I really love being back in school again, though I'm glad I didn't do back-to-back degrees.  My work experience has given me a better perspective on life and makes me appreciate the student life all the more.

My favorite part about my program is being around people who are interested in the same thing as I am.  That support and camaraderie is so important.  Writing is a lonely process and it's comforting to have encouragement and feedback from fellow classmates.

I am learning more about myself as a writer and how I work best.  What I've come to grasp more and more is that writing is rewriting.  It is easier for me now to plough through terrible drafts, just so that I have something on paper, and not get hung up on perfection.  I then rework and rewrite the drafts until I almost go crazy (!), keeping in mind writer Philip Roth's quote: "I often have to write a hundred pages or more before there's a paragraph that's alive."  Yikes.  But I keep thinking, no writing is wasted.  Even when I delete pages in frustration, it is all practice.  Though it is mentally agonizing work, I am still enjoying the process.  When I get something right or I have an idea that fits into place, it it so rewarding. 

Snow Day!

Winchester, and the UK, had the heaviest snow in 18 years!  Needless to say this caused great joy and frustration.

We had a blast walking around town, sliding down St. Catherine's Hill and watched people with their 'sledges' whizzing down.  The downside was that we had to postpone our trip to Prague :(

London, December 29, 2008

Stephanie: We met our friends David and Michelle in London for the day.

It was a miracle we got there as the trains completely shut down at 1pm with no sign of starting up again. But it was a Christmas miracle: we ended up hopping on a train that began moving and were only 15 minutes late.

We enjoyed walking around the National Gallery, then we went to dinner at a shady Chinese restaurant (that no one will take responsibility for choosing :). No one got sick, so that was good! The after dinner pub was much better! It was great to catch up with American friends.

New Year's Day

Stephanie: Russell had to work so Steph was on her own. The city ran a Free King Alfred's Bus day which included free bus tours on some of the old-fashioned coaches. I rode around town, enjoying the scenery and excitement.

Our English friend Tom was in Winchester with his family, so I joined them for dinner at Winchester's Prezzo.

New Year's Eve

Stephanie: The Winchester Cathedral Christmas Market set up an outdoor ice rink so we went skating. I had a lot of fun. Russell accomplished his goals of not falling down and not "killing a kid." Great job, Russ!

That evening, we enjoyed a wonderful dinner party and games with some new friends in Winchester. I introduced the group to Blackberry Apple cobbler and my oatmeal chocolate chip cookies that someone described as a "spicy biscuit." I got a kick out of that!

More Christmas

Stephanie: Christmas has been fun and relaxing. I went to four carol services to make the most out of the season!

On Christmas Eve we had a cream tea and went to see "The Day the Earth Stood Still" at The Screen, in Winchester. Not a good movie but a fun experience. The theatre is small and comfy. Right after the previews, they pause for an ice-cream break.

The Winchester Cathedral market was beautiful with hundreds of stalls selling food, crafts and gifts. I visited five times.

We cooked a lot for Christmas dinner. It was really fun but a challenge with such a small kitchen. We incorporated some English traditions like Christmas Crackers (the kind you pull apart and get a 'prize' inside), Sticky Toffee pudding, goose-fat roasties (roast potatoes) and Christmas pudding (not good but a must for a proper English Christmas).

Portsmouth - December 8, 2008

Stephanie: Here we are in Portsmouth again. This is Russell in front of the museum.


Sir Arthur Conan Doyle is one of Portsmouth's most distinguished former residents. The Sherlock Holmes exhibit at the museum was fascinating with lots of memorabilia about the famous detective from all over the world. He is still just as popular today with a new movie coming out next year with Robert Downey Jr. and Jude Law. Can't wait!


Russell practically dragged me to the Portsmouth Royal Theatre's production of 'Northanger Abbey.' OK, just kidding.
Here I am enjoying a pre-show glass of wine. I really enjoyed the play--very well done. Russell went in with super low expectations (and a beer) and thought it was not a complete waste of time, though he could've gone without the 10 minute long dance sequences. He really is a good husband :)
Btw, the girl next to me answered her phone during the production and had a conversation. How rude is that?!


Russell by the beautiful Portsmouth harbor.


This is the pub where we ate. We recommend it.

Christmas in Winchester - December 1, 2008

Thanksgiving! - November 27, 2008

Russell: For Thanksgiving this year, we went over to our friends Cotton and Rupert's house. Cotton is another Texan that lives two blocks from us and Rupert is her South African boyfriend. Cotton was in Sigma Phi Lambda (Stephanie's old sorority) at Texas Tech and loves football. Rupert's sister was there too with her boyfriend from New Zealand. BTW they call New Zealanders Kiwis. We introduced them to Green Bean Casserole and Sweet Potatoes with way too much sugar on them.

We ate a great traditional thanksgiving dinner, watched Rugby and football, and played Texas Holdem. Unfortunately the three Texans lost to a south african, so I guess we didn't represent well.

Stephanie's Birthday - November 19, 2008

Stephanie: I celebrated my 29th birthday on November 19th. We had a party when my parents came. They know how to make birthdays special. Russell took me out to dinner (and got me lots of Jane Austen stuff from the museum) and my classmates gave me a card and candy. I haven't decided whether this will be the first of many 29th birthdays but if they can be as great as this one, I will seriously consider it.

Guy Fawkes Day Bonfire - November 8, 2008

Russell: The British know how to hold a grudge.  Back in the 1600's, a guy named Guy Fawkes attempted to blow up the British Parliament, but luckily was thwarted.  Apparently, torturing him for five straight days and executing him was not a big enough punishment.  To this day, they heap more disgrace on him by creating a fake Guy and burning him on top of a bonfire every year.  This is replicated across the nation on Guy Fawkes Night (November 5th), so hundreds of Guys are burnt each year.  I think they need to get over it.

The Guy sitting on top of the bonfire

Stephanie rooting for the Guy to burn

They also had fireworks after the Guy burned

The next few days, we toured around Winchester with Jim and Lois, showing them the local sights.  After a week's stay they headed back to America, with full stomachs and enough stories to tell for years to come.

Eating at a pub with Jim and Lois

Jane Austen's House - November 7, 2008

Stephanie: On another day trip, we visited Jane Austen's house in Chawton. Mom and I were super excited. Russell and Dad brought along reading material. This house is where Austen spent the last eight years of her life (before moving to Winchester to be near her doctor before she died). It is here she revised three of her novels: Pride and Prejudice, Sense and Sensibility and Northanger Abbey and wrote the other three: Mansfield Park, Emma, Persuasion. Her writing desk was on display but I was not allowed to sit at it.

The house is as it was when she lived there, with original furniture, clothes, and memorabilia on display. It was such a remarkable experience, as I am a huge fan of hers. I am in awe of her talent and writing abilities, especially when I think about how she wrote: at a small desk, on expensive sheets of paper, constantly dipping her pen into ink. I feel very spoiled (and inferior) having a laptop and delete button (which I use often). I can't imagine writing in longhand, draft after draft. Though now I'm thinking I should try it...

After almost clearing out the gift shop of Jane Austen stuff (tea towels, note cards, mugs, plastic bag holders--you get the picture), we headed to Casandra's Tea Room (named for Austen's sister) across the street for a cream tea. Delightful!

http://www.jane-austens-house-museum.org.uk/

Trip to Oxford - November 6, 2008

Stephanie: My parents arrived in Winchester November 5th. It was great to see them. One of our day trips was to Oxford. We took a tour of Oxford University, the oldest university in the English-speaking world. The architecture and grounds were beautiful, so is the grass. No one is allowed to walk on it (just like at A&M!)


Mom and Dad helped us navigate the city.



We had lunch at The Turf pub, a favorite of many famous patrons, including C.S. Lewis and J.R.R. Tolkein who hung out there. Another patron: Bill Clinton when he was a Rhodes Scholar.